Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Toledo y Madrid: Dia Dos

Our second day in Spain continued the frantic pace that started our journey. We left Victor’s house and went on a walking tour of the city. Here are some of Toledo’s famous sites:



Notice the holes at the top of tower, remnants from gunfire during the Spanish Civil War:

Decorations in front of the cathedral remaining from Corpus Cristi, a religious festival:

Overlook at the edge of the old city:

The View:

The New City:

We walked outside the city walls along the Route of Don Quixote. We also walked along the river.
The Route by the River:

The City Wall (Translation: On a dark night,/Kindled in love with yearnings/Oh, happy chance!/I went forth without being observed,/My house now being at rest.)

We walked back up the very steep hill to the city’s centre and were welcomed by Puerto de Sol (the port of the sun):

After our walk, Victor fed us a huge lunch that he cooked for us and his friend, Cristina, and it was time for a siesta.

A brief cultural lesson about food and sleeping schedules:
The meal schedule for Spaniards is very different from the schedule that Americans have. Breakfast in Spain consists of very little: toast or a small pastry and coffee. The coffee is also an espresso, so unless you request café Americano or café con leche, you are not going to have any coffee to sip on for a long period of time. You can also forget about something as heavenly as a Biscuitville Ultimate Ham ever being served here! Lunch is the biggest meal of the day and is served around 2:00 or 3:00. That doesn’t sound problematic until you eat one piece of toast in the morning at 8:00 and sightsee for six hours. Lunch seems very far away when you are a starving tourist! After such a big lunch, a siesta is required. It is also required due to the heat. It was in the mid-nineties to hundred degrees during our stay in Toledo, so after we ate lunch, there was little point in walking around in the heat. Furthermore, all shops close down for siesta and lunch from 2:00 to 4:30 (sometimes 5:00, depending on how long it takes the clerk to eat, nap, and smoke). After siesta, Spaniards spend their evenings socializing at bars where a tapa (small dish) is often served as an accompaniment to any alcoholic beverage. The idea of tapas originated hundreds of years ago in Spain when innkeepers did not want people “drinking and riding” (their horses :) ), so they put a small plate of food on the top of any glass in which ale, beer, wine, or cider was served. The tapas had the second function of keeping flies away. The tradition has continued today. Tapas can be as small as a couple of olives (which I still hate…) or as large as chicken wings, fries, and mini pizzas served on one plate. If you are still hungry after socializing and grazing on tapas, you can eat dinner around 9:00-10:30. If you want dinner prior to 9:00, you will have a very difficult time finding a place that will serve you. Spanish children are also up very late. Since dinner is so late, children are out at all hours. It is not uncommon to see kids playing soccer (futbol) in the plaza or eating ice cream while their parents sip wine at midnight or later. After such a full day, they go sleep, get up early, and start the cycle over again!

In the evening, we drove to Madrid to hang out with some of Victor’s friends from when he studied in London. They were two couples from Chile and Spain. Understanding them was very difficult for me. There were multiple conversations, multiple accents, and a lot of background noise. Unlike when I speak with someone one-on-one and can understand half of what they say, I could understand less than a fourth of what was being discussed. Victor and J. Santiago were very good about translating for me!

First, we went tapas hopping at a couple of different bars. Some of the tapas were very unusual—squid, eel, blood sausage. We finally ate dinner around 11:45. The dinner was delicious! We had jamon y manchego cheese, calamari, sardines, and clams. I also tried a drink that I really enjoy called a clara. It is a small glass of beer with soda. It sounds disgusting, but it is really light and refreshing. You should give it a try!

At the Restaurant in Madrid:
That's all for now. Time for another clara!

The Arrival

Along with the computer issues and language barriers (for me, at least), our initial arrival was more hectic than expected. After we posted "The Wait" from the Toronto Airport, our flight was delayed adding an additional hour and a half to our already excessive layover time. Once we arrived in Madrid, we had to take the Metro to the bus stop. After walking to the opposite end of the airport, with both of us questioning why I had to bring so much luggage, we got on the Metro for a forty-five minute trip to the bus stop (that included changing trains three times). Once we got to the bus stop, we were informed that the bus to Toledo no longer leaves from that bus stop and now leaves from a bus stop on the opposite side of town. Refusing to navigate the crowded Metro again with three rolling suitcases and two backpacks, we took a taxi to the new bus stop. From that bus stop, we took an hour-long trip to Toledo, where J. Santiago's friend, Issac, picked us up.

At this point, we had been traveling for twenty-four hours. However, in true Spanish style, a celebration and tour of the beloved "terra madre" was due! First, we went with Issac for a drink overlooking the beautiful city of Toledo.


A View of Toledo:



Issac and J. Santiago:



After a drink and a snack (we had not eaten in eight hours), Issac took us on a tour of the city and the University of Castilla la Mancha, where J. Santiago had studied during his year abroad.


Walking through the City:



The university is a beautiful paradox of architecture. It combines modern, sleek lines with the original Spanish/Moorish architecture. It is not uncommon to turn one corner and walk over a glass bridge covering old stone inscribed with Latin, or see an archeological excavation site surrounded by the updated library and cafeteria.


One Example of the Modern and Ancient:

While at the university, we met one of Issac's friends and Victor joined us. We then headed out for my first taste of comida tipica: tapas y cervezas. The first restaurant was similar in architectural style to the university, a fusion of new and old. Multicolored mood lighting changed shades as it reflected off the ancient Moorish wall of the city that was excavated behind an old plaster wall as the bar was being renovated. It was surreal to see neon green, pink, red, yellow, and blue illuminate a thousand-year old remnant that is enclosed inside a very modern, chic restaurant.


The Spaniards at the Restaurant (Issac y Victor):

While there, we had sardines with tomatoes (I've already had my fair share of sardines and anchovies, and I'm surprised to say that they are quite tasty!) and jamon croquettes (Spaniards LOVE fried food!).

We then left to eat carcamusas, a traditional Toledo dish made up of veal, peas, and tomato sauce. At least, I hope that is what was in it! Issac joked with me that it consists of rat and/or pigeon...Well, it is one tasty rat/veal/pigeon/whatever dish!

Enjoying Carcamusas at an Outside Bar:

After all the food and socializing, we headed back to Victor's house for some much-needed rest. However, to our surprise, we were shortly greeted by two more of Victor's friends who wanted to welcome the Americans as well. Eventually, thirty-three hours after we first woke up in North Carolina to begin our travels, it was time to lay down our weary heads and get some rest...

Technology, We Have a Problem...

Wow! This has been a whirlwind beginning to our trip. First of all, I want to apologize for not being able to update this blog sooner. I have had numerous technological issues. Initially, I lost my adapter to convert my computer plug from the three-pronged United States model to the two-pronged Spain model. When I finally found a new adapter (a United States adapter at a store owned by a Chinese family living in Spain…strange cultural mix, huh?), I discovered that Spain is not as “wired” as the United States. Finding Wi-Fi is very difficult, and where Wi-Fi is located, it is either blocked or has extremely low connectivity and cuts me off frequently. Then, once I got to the dorm, it took me two days to figure out why my Internet was not working! Since J. Santiago, my translator, was in class, it took a lot of smiling and hand signals to communicate with the man at the front desk, but now, ladies and gentlemen, we are off!

It is really nice to feel connected to the world again. After twelve days in Spain, I am already learning a lot, but there are many times when I am silent. I can understand at least half of what people are saying around me, but I still have no way to respond other than “Si,” “Bien,” “Hace calor/frio/etc.” and “Tengo hombre/sueno/etc.” When I have moments of confidence and I decide to order food or a beverage, the server typically looks at me and then starts responding in a long string of sentences—in Spanish. At this point, I simply turn to J. Santiago with a look of utmost helplessness, and he begins translating again. Therefore, I am really looking forward to starting my classes next week. Even a basic knowledge of Spanish would be better than feeling like a complete outcast! For now, my e-mails and blog entries give me a sense of belonging when I often feel like I’m drowning in a “sea of sis.”

In order to update everyone and not bore you with one excessively long post, I will be updating this blog in installments. My first week in Salamanca is basically one of settling in, so I will have time to explore the city (it is much bigger than I expected) and post messages periodically, probably one each morning and one each evening. Once my classes begin next week, I hope to have caught everyone up to speed with our adventures and misadventures during our first two weeks in Spain! Plus, if you get bored reading my wordy posts (I am a student of nineteenth century British literature after all), feel free just to skip ahead to the pictures.

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

The Wait...


Buenas tardes!
We are in the middle of our marathon travel to Madrid, Espana (about 24 hours worth of travel), and we are currently "enjoying" a nine-hour layover in Toronto, Canada. As we pass the time, I've been taking pictures to chronicle the not-so-glamorous side of traveling! Es la vida.

The Travelers upon arrival in Toronto:


J. Santiago enjoying the free Wi-Fi at the airport:
The "bat cave" located in the entrance to the terminal. Can you find me?


I'm hidden on the right:

The Travelers several hours later:


During our wait, we have at least been able to work on finalizing some of our travel arrangements for our tour of Northern Spain. I am really looking forward to seeing "Espana Verde" and enjoying the natural beauty and cultural sights that are to be found along the northern Atlantic coast. It will be a welcome change from the industrial, air conditioned style of the Toronto Pearson Airport!

Espero un buen viaje:



Sincerely,
Karynosa y J. Santiago

Saturday, June 13, 2009

The Plan




In just a few days, J. Santiago and I will embark on a two-month "adventura" in Espana. At the request of several people, I am setting up this blog as a way to communicate our adventures (or misadventures) and fotografias. I will do my best to update it as we travel (and when we have Internet access). I look forward to sharing our travels with you!

Sincerely,

Karynosa